Proenza Schouler reworks accessible White Label line

By

Dominique Muret

Published
Nov 8, 2019

Proenza Schouler is taking its accessible White Label line in a new direction. For Pre-Spring 2020, the affordable basics collection launched under the acronym PSWL in 2017, is putting its full name – "Proenza Schouler White Label" – front and center. The line will also be offering more elaborate silhouettes, as shown in the "Lost and Found" campaign, shot in New York by Tim Elkhaïm and featuring a chic multicultural cast. 
 

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who founded Proenza Schouler in 2002, have reimagined their white-labeled line (black labels are reserved for their signature collection) with a fresher, more elaborate approach. In a press release, the brand stated that it is "a new chapter" for the collection, which is becoming more high-end, while also maintaining accessible prices, ranging from $145 for a t-shirt to $975 for a double-face cashmere coat. 

The new White Label has been conceived as a continuation of the brand's signature line that aims to meet the needs of the Proenza Schouler woman for a more laid-back and personal wardrobe offered at a more accessible price. The designers have therefore redefined the line's image through a new approach corresponding more closely to the  brand's overall aesthetic. "Proenza Schouler White Label fulfills the relaxed expression of the well defined Proenza Schouler woman," explains the company.

The new collection offers 80 wearable pieces: t-shirts with graphic prints, tops in jersey or zebra patterns, a micro-check spaghetti-strap dress, a ribbed jumper with a large zipped collar, pleated skirts in gingham or pastel-colored leather, a bleached denim jeans and jacket set, a jacquard pullover featuring an abstract tiger pattern, and a knit ribbed maxi-dress, to name but a few – not to mention the translucent waterproof with its detachable gingham lining. 

In summary, the new concept is that of a more democratic, more wearable fashion line, with less structured silhouettes and looser, more voluminous cuts than the brand's signature line. Above all, this reimagined White Label seems to be targeting a slightly more mature woman than the young fashionistas addressed by previous PSWL collections. 

After two seasons presenting their collections during Paris Haute Couture week, Proenza Schouler's design duo returned to New York in September 2018. Shortly afterwards, exactly one year ago, the designers purchased their brand from Castanea Partners with the help of a private investor who gave the company a new injection of capital. They also brought in new management led by CEO Kay Hong. With its new White Label project, the brand is widening its audience in the hopes of accelerating its commercial expansion.