Emporio Armani: The 40 shades of gray

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Feb 25, 2022

No designer in history loves a non-color more than Giorgio Armani, whose latest Emporio Armani collection had several score of variations on one of his signature colors – gray.

 
In a co-ed show, Giorgio sent out pearl-button Edwardian suits made in slate gray; porpoise-tint below-the-knee down coats and silver weekend puffers for the ladies.
 
For the gents – ash-hued double-breasted and perfectly draped blazers; zig-zag anchor gray dusters; fog-colored highwayman’s coats and flint cardigans for guys. Many of whom walked in knee-high hiking boots with tractor tire soles.

Elsewhere his cast appeared in a palette of pewter, slate, graphite and anthracite – ideally displayed on a giant checkerboard runway and backdrop.
 
However, when Armani did inject color, his bold shearling blousons and dark abstract swirl print cocktails all looked strong. Pairing them with black leather thigh boots, cut like leggings – a major trend this season – was also smart. 

 
Backed up by a great soundtrack, a blend of Red Sun by Paul Young and Shadows by Pitto & Woodie S, it made for a highly assured expression of Emporio’s youthful style. 
 
Ever generous, when Giorgio realized that recent changes in regulations allowed him to increase the numbers at his show inside Teatro Armani, the designer invited 200 of his staff from Milan to attend.
 
At the finale, the 87-year-old Armani took his bow with a wry smile. His longevity looking all the more remarkable given the recent departure of several famed designers.
 
His remains a long and glorious reign.