'Masculine femininity had pride of place in New York'

New York Fashion Week closed Thursday, February 16, revealing the first trends for the fall/winter 2017-2018 season. Fashion journalist Natalia Grgona of Paris Modes TV gives her take on the key pieces and standout silhouettes from this latest round of New York shows, while also reflecting on the event's general atmosphere, driven by a desire for unity, solidarity and diversity. 

What will be the womenswear essentials for the fall/winter 2017-2018 season?
Big coats, in long, elegant styles, will be back to keep out the cold. Our favorites were the various overcoats from Coach, from shearlings to pea coats to varsity jackets, with colorful embroidery and patches. Knitwear will also be big, with lots of sweaters and cardigans, seen in vintage styles, like at Tory Burch, or sportier looks, like at Moncler Grenoble. A certain masculine femininity had pride of place in New York, with the pant suit making a major comeback, seen at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Thom Browne, Michael Kors, Victoria Beckham and Alexander Wang. Sparkle and shine are also on the agenda for evening wear, with lots of metallic and lamé fabrics in very sensual styles, like at Brandon Maxwell, Jason Wu and Ralph Lauren. Finally, flat shoes will have their day. Masculine footwear styles like moccasins and boots get a feminine twist, as seen at Carolina Herrera and Altuzarra.

Which designers stood apart at New York Fashion Week?
Raf Simons made his Calvin Klein debut on the second day of New York Fashion Week, and that remains the show of the week in terms of creativity. It marks the beginning of a new era for the American label. Philipp Plein stood out with a spectacular show at the New York Public Library, one of the Big Apple's most famous monuments, and a prestigious guests list. The Prabal Gurung show finale was also a moving affair, with models parading T-shirts bearing messages of hope and unity to a cover of John Lennon's "Imagine."

What was the general atmosphere like at the New York shows?
In a word: tense. I felt more than ever that New Yorkers and, of course, all of the fashion world, were concerned about the future and were still completely taken aback by the election of Donald Trump and the policy he has been implementing since his inauguration. Almost all designers wore the pink badge in support of Planned Parenthood, which is under threat. T-shirts with socially or politically conscious messages featured in many shows, from Jonathan Simkhai and Prabal Gurung to Zadig & Voltaire and Public School. News site BOF (Business of Fashion) was giving out white bandanas that designers, models and journalists could wear to shows as a sign of support for unity and diversity.

What's more, the number of fashion shows on the New York schedule is dwindling with each passing season. Notable absentees from the latest round were Rodarte, Hood by Air, DKNY, Vera Wang and Tommy Hilfiger. This was also the last New York appearance for Proenza Schouler and Lacoste, who are switching to Paris.

If you had to pick one standout show, which would it be?
It's always difficult after having seen 40 or so shows, but I would pick Lacoste. The interplanetary journey led by creative director Felipe Oliveira Baptista was a real success, and a major moment of this Fashion Week. Plus, it's all the more moving since, after 13 years showing collections in New York, the label is celebrating its 85th anniversary with a return to Paris this year.