Logos and leopard print prowl through Peter Dundas' urban jungle

By

Triana Alonso

Published
Jul 4, 2018

Who said that Haute Couture Week is all about haute couture? With a wide range of events, exhibitions, runway shows and fine jewellery presentations, the latest edition of Couture Week is packed to the brim and also happens to include a handful of Resort shows. With Miuccia Prada having kicked off the runway calendar on Sunday with Miu Miu's 2019 Resort collection, Peter Dundas entered the fray with the latest show for his eponymous label on Monday, marking the second collection that the designer has presented during Paris' Haute Couture Week.

When a brand announces its launch by sheathing a pregnant Beyoncé in a jewel-encrusted golden gown, as Peter Dundas did at 2017's Grammy, it's pretty clear that it will be trading on bling, eccentricity and large doses of pop culture. And so it was with Dundas. The Norwegian-born designer, who made his name as the creative director at Emanuel Ungaro, Roberto Cavalli and Emilio Pucci – a brand that he worked with for seven years –, has returned to the French capital with "D5", a collection for next spring in which 80s influences jostle with elements of highly commercial streetwear. The result includes everything from crop tops and sweatshirts featuring sparkling leopard prints and the brand's logo to pieces channelling the purest biker aesthetic. 

Legs that looked like they could be measured in kilometres were shown off by ultra short skirts in a runway presentation where trousers only made an appearance three times, accompanied by a single set of overalls. The classical sculptures in Paris' Musée Bourdelle were therefore an ideal backdrop to the catwalk, providing a perfect contrast to the 80s-inspired miniskirts on display. Giant shoulder pads, never-ending décolletés, snatched waists and glimpses of lingerie were combined in glamorous creations that were spiced up with sequins and feathers, not to mention the leopard and camouflage prints and biker jackets. Fuchsia and bright golden yellow stood out as the collection's eye-catching signature colours, while jacquard and velvet were the fabrics of choice. 

Striking out independently, the brand presented a collection that was both energetic and original, but which could, perhaps, have been improved by focusing more on the finishing touches and toning down the excesses of the footwear. A series of animal-print sandals inspired by singer Siouxsie Sioux – or rather, by her vertiginous high-heels – made life difficult for almost all of the models, who were led by catwalk veteran Joan Smalls. American model Karlie Kloss also played a starring role in proceedings – particularly seeing as her runway appearances have been somewhat infrequent recently – closing the show in a silver micro-dress. As his guests broke into rousing applause, Peter Dundas stepped out to thank them wearing pieces due to debut in his first menswear line, which is slated for release in the near future. A teaser and a runway show – two for the price of one.